Spain, Turkey and a fresh salad in Till

This blog post is very special to us because it was one of those trips that we started but never expected how surprising it would turn out to be. The initial plan that Malak and I set was to drive to Nablus and hang out a little bit in the old town in Nablus and enjoy the beauty that the city has to offer. We also wanted to visit a few places along the way, but ended up spending the bulk of our time in one small yet breathtaking village called Till (Also written as Tell). 

And while the way from Ramallah where me and Malak live is just an hour drive to Nablus, it took us more than 4 hours to actually get there, because we could not resist stopping every 10 minutes to marvel at the amazing scenery we came across. 

In our small rented red car we left Ramallah through Birzeit town and headed north on road 60 that passes through many beautiful villages such as Sinjil and Turmusaya. The landscape changed as we drove closer to Nablus and left behind the bustling city atmosphere. As I was driving, Malak was playing DJ and finding us the best 90s Arabic pop music to groove on along the way. 

Passing by Luban e-Sharkiya, Malak told me that every time she passes by this village she is just eager to stop the bus or car she is in and take a few pictures in what seems like an endless field of wildflowers and farmers’ crops. And who am I to say no to yet another opportunity to take more amazing photos?

Even Though I am terrified of green landscapes especially in the heat and what could be hiding there, such as snakes and spiders, I needed to comply with my annoying friend’s nagging for me to stand in a field of yellow flowers. And I am so happy I did, and that no creatures creeped up on me, because the peace I felt just standing there listening to birds singing and feeling the breeze on my face was definitely worth it! 

At the roundabout that leads to both Tulkarem and Nablus, we took the second exit and headed to Tulkarem. Driving for another 10 minutes, we took a small exit with unfortunately no clear sign, and headed up a very steep road that would lead us to Till. Malak was again very eager to take a photo there because the view was priceless! Finally we saw a sign that reads Till and were assisted by a very nice old man who was selling zucchinis on the side of the road (Hint: Do not shy away from asking strangers for directions!). 

Arriving to Till, I think Malak was completely speechless. We were greeted by an amazing view that reminded us instantly of European castles and the landscapes in Spain. Hills stretching for miles and dotted with lush Olive trees that looked like tiny fluffy clouds sprouting from the ground. Malak left the car with her camera and just walked ahead of me with me driving slowly next to her. Every time she looked at the monitor of her camera she would look back at me and just say WOW.

Till is an extremely gorgeous and off the grid town that is located 5 kilometers southwest of Nablus. The name comes from Syriac and it means height. The first view definitely screams height as the old houses in the village are built over a very majestic and rocky hillside. We initially intended to go up to the old houses but what we found ahead of us was as beautiful and decided to just spend the day getting to know the lovely people of Till. 

We stopped for about half an hour at a lovely place called Orjin Cafe. The cafe is built in a location that allows you to have an uninterrupted view of the entire valley of Till. It reminded us of Turkey’s amazing scenery and for a good reason.  The owner of the cafe is the biggest fan of Turkey and was inspired by its simple cafes and peoples’ desires to just sit down and enjoy a warm cup of tea and maybe smoke Shisha while enjoying the view. Nothing fancy. Urwa, the owner kindly offered us two hot cups of tea prepared on wood fire and while I enjoyed the fantastic contrasting views, Malak chatted with Urwa as she always does. I do not think she can resist the journalist in her!  

And after we sipped our tea in peaceful silence, Mohammad who works with Urwa came over with two deserts. The desert is called Madlooqa, a delicious and famous sweet made of layers of cold cream, Kunafah dough and topped with Cashew nuts. Safe to say we devoured the whole thing in a matter of minutes! 

Malak then told me that she saw a farmer walking in his farm below the cafe and that she asked him if we could stop by and of course they welcomed us with open arms. Abdul Raziq and his friend took us on a tour in their farm and were adamant to give us enough produce to prepare our own fresh lettuce salad. The farm itself is called Al Fawar, which is a reference to the spring that runs through the farm from the mountain. We were amazed at how we were transported into a forest of fresh produce that had everything you would ever need. As I was struggling to carry all the goodness Abdul Raziq was handing over to me, Malak was enjoying her little game of trying to name every plant and tree we passed by. She was able to guess some but I think she will be able to guess more on our beautiful journey discovering Palestine. 

After a long farewell and a promise of visiting them again, we took off and headed up the mountain on our way to Nablus, but of course stopped again at the hilltop to explore the most impressive location to see Till uninterrupted from east to west. 

While we feel sorry that we never knew about Till and its amazing landscapes before, we felt blessed that we had a chance to discover what it has to offer. We are so happy that we have this platform to share these experiences with you because we simply want you to get to experience the beauty and the pure magic of this amazing village.

Breakfast at Ein Zarqa

^^^ Check out our Instagram highlights for videos and more photos!

Bisan enjoying her morning tea with mint and fresh vegetables.

Last week, Bisan and I decided to visit a place called Ein Zarqa in the village of Deir Ghassaneh near Ramallah. It was not a planned trip but ended up being one of the most beautiful locations we have visited in a while.

I was scrolling through my Facebook feed when my friend Khaldoun, originally from Deir Ghassaneh, posted a slow motion video of a rock being thrown into this beautiful crystal clear spring. The sun was reflecting off the beautiful splash and I was intrigued right away. I called Bisan at night and said lets go see this place. Bisan being the craziest travel buddy said yes with no questions asked!

She picked me up at 6:30 in the morning and we drove outside Ramallah in the direction of the town of Birzeit and Nabi Saleh village. While the location of the spring itself is not far from Ramallah, finding it was difficult due to the lack of clear signs. We drove all the way to Deir Ghassaneh village, because that is where we thought the spring is located. But after asking around, we were told to go back to Beit Rima, the village just before Deir Ghassaneh to find the easiest entrance into Ein Zarqa. The Deir Ghassaneh road is extremely steep and bumpy.

Going back to Beit Rima, we asked some of the drivers at the taxi station to show us the way and honestly we do not think we would have made it without their help (Tip: Do not be shy to ask people about directions). After we failed to find the right path, one driver offered to lead us to the closest street leading to the valley.

While we managed to arrive at the spring in a small car, we think that it would be much more stress free to rent a bigger car to avoid falling into one of the many holes in the unpaved road. Along the way we stopped multiple times to take in the amazing scenery. We were surrounded by what seemed like a million Olive trees. The valley below was filled with beautiful flowers and plants and the fog was clearing just as we arrived offering us to see the sun rise into the sky.

Again, there was no sign to indicate that we arrived at the spring, but we found a huge white cement water tank with the words “please take your trash with you”. That was enough for us to know that we arrived at the spring.

Our breakfast date in 360

Having left at 6:30 in the morning meant that we were able to enjoy the area by ourselves. The place is usually packed by visitors but arriving in the morning hours will guarantee you enjoy hearing the birds sing and the water without human interruption. We took sometime to drink in the view, which was honestly breathtaking! The minute we stepped out of the car we could hear the spring running. We took out our food basket and surveyed the area around and finally decided to climb the cliff overlooking the spring and have our delicious breakfast, which Bisan had prepared in the morning, watching the sunrise and hearing the water flow so peacefully.

We had our hot black tea with fresh mint and devoured the vegetables with the ever delicious Jerusalem Ka’ak and Labaneh. After taking few amazing shots and recording some videos, we decided to go back down and venture into the valley to see what we could find. As the weather was getting warmer, we realized that we have made the best decision to come early. Two families joined us but we were not bothered because we had enough time to enjoy the tranquility.

Miss Bisan enjoying her fresh pick.

We walked a bit into the valley and could see the hike trail directions marks and we knew that this trail is something that we will be doing very soon. Bisan being the knowledgable person about plants, started picking some herbs and plants and I was taking more videos of the two of us.

After walking for another hour we decided to head back to the car and drive to the village of Deir Ghassaneh that has amazing architecture mostly in the center of the Old town. The day did not end here but we will have to share that with you soon in another post so stay tuned!

End